Upper Mustang Trek

In the morning after breakfast, we drive to the airport and fly to Pokhara. Upon arrival, we are rewarded with magnificent up-close views of the Himalayas including Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Machhapuchhre, two of which are over 8000 meters. We check in to our hotel and relax. In the afternoon, visit World Peace Pagoda,  boating in Fewa Lake and evening stroll along the lively Lakeside market with many restaurants and shops enjoying dinner.

Phewa Lake is the second largest and most beautiful lake in Pokhara bordering the forested hill. The view of Fishtail mountain reflected in the lake, the little island and the Tal Barahi temple in the middle, the White Stupa on the top of the hill, the paragliders jumping from Sarangkot, the Ultra-light soaring up high, buzzing, all at once can be seized by the visuals in the mild breeze over the lake.

Overnight at your hotel in Pokhara; Meals: None

The flight for Jomsom from Pokhara leaves early in the morning. All the flights for Jomsom should land in the morning and it is not possible to fly in the afternoon due to heavy wind at Jomsom. Arrive at Jomsom airfield. We hand over our belongings except our daypack, water bottle and camera that will be carried by our porter.

The first day of the trek starts from Jomsom for Kagbeni, the gateway to Lo-Manthang, the kingdom of forbidden land of Mustang. It leads you along the bed of the broad Kali Gandaki River to the town of Kagbeni. Kagbeni is located at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Thong Khol, positioning itself with great commercial and strategic value. The police check post is located here and the control is made here for trekkers who would like to visit Mustang.

Overnight at Kagbeni; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

The exact trail will depend upon the condition of Kali Gandaki River. If it is running strongly, you may have to climb up onto and over several mesas on the east bank of the river. If not, the trail will take you straight up the middle of the broad, flat floodplain that you keep crossing and recrossing in the meandering river as you head due north. Depending upon your interest, you can walk 3 hours back and forth to also visit the beautiful village Tentang. On both sides of the valley, you will see interesting eroded landscape, the houses built here are quite different from Chusang. It has nice monastery and a colorful big Chorten that makes Tentang even more interesting. People here mostly live off the farm. We return back to Chusang.

Overnight at a teahouse in Chusang; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

You start to get into the extraordinary wild lands of Mustang. The landscapes are made up of intensely eroded, bare hillsides which display a dazzling array of colors. As you follow the river north, the cliffs on either side grow more and more spectacular, and draw closer together. You pass the village Chele and here the cliffs close down to narrow ridges. From here, the trail leaves the Kali Gandaki river and turns into a series of switchbacks leading up the steep west bank of the river. The trail onwards becomes more difficult. You trek up through a big valley – totally treeless surrounded by eroded walls of pink and orange stone. After hours of desolation, the village of Samar (3290m) comes as a shock. It is a pleasant village surrounded by green fields and stands of small trees. Samar is a major stopping point for horse caravans and sees teams of stocky ponies with finely embroidered trappings, cared for by horsemen in brightly colored clothes.

As you trek north from Samar, you pass through the only “forest” in Lo - groves of birch Juniper and Rhododendron stunted by the struggle to survive in this harsh environment. Even so, the stark contrast between the trees and their surrounding gives the forest a strange ethereal charm that some travelers have referred to as magical. Today, it is considered to be quite a hard day due to the uphill trek on a height above 3000m. The view even becomes more spectacular today as everywhere you look, you will see wild landscapes and it's hard to believe.

Overnight at a teahouse in Shyangmochen; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Today you cross the 2nd highest pass at 3770m. From here, you look out over a spectacular landscape of jumbled canyons and gorges. You reach Gelling, a village of white mud walled houses surrounded by a patchwork of green farmlands. On the cliffs above the fields and houses, you can see two red chapels, a giant white chorten and the ruins of many palaces and forts. The number of ruins is impressive; even at first glance it’s obvious this little town has been through thousand of years of history. Unfortunately, the chapel at Gelling was recently robbed off many fine Thangkas and are not seen today (ancient scroll paintings). Although you may be allowed to see the village chapel; with its new murals, you won’t be allowed to take photographs; the caretakers believe the photos alert thieves to the work of art inside the Monastery.

From Gelling onwards, the climbing is easier. Despite the fact that you ascend to the highest pass on the whole trip (Nyi La: 3950m), the trail is broad and gentle. You descend to Ghami – another collection of white washed houses set amid a green checkerboard of fields. The temple here is small but interesting. You are allowed in, but again not permitted to take photographs. You can also walk around an ancient King’s place, but you are not allowed to enter.

Overnight at a teahouse in Gemi; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

The trail heads down to the lovely green river valley. It is surprising to see tall green trees along the river valley after coming through barren lands as they sell timber to the people of Lo- Manthang. From here, the trail heads uphill to the pass, and below down you will see the longest prayer wall of Mustang. Trekking further, you pass some Chortens and the landscape is even more spectacular with different colors on the eroded cliffs. You pass the beautiful fertile village Tangmar, the trail heads steep up to the pass. Further gentle uphill to the next pass from where you will see the village Tsanrang. From this pass, the trail gently heads down to the Lo- Gekhar Gompa. It is one of the most beautiful Gompa of Mustang standing with interesting paintings and images inside the Gompa. The paintings inside are quite beautiful and all carved on stone; you need to go inside with powerful flashlight to see around. The colorful Chortens around the Gompa makes it look even more spectacular. Some of the huge trees around the Gomba makes the area look very green, peaceful, and perfect for meditation.

After visiting the next village Marang, another village Charang comes into view. The bright colors of the temple, the towering fortress and the painted Chortens at the edge of town, snap out in sharp contrast to the green fields and dusty ridges. The fort and the temple are powerful structures physically and psychologically completely dominating the flat village houses and surrounding land. As you draw closer you are in for another shock, the land drops away 300m down into the twisting canyon of the Kali Gandaki. The fort still belongs to the king of Mustang. The monasteries of Charangs, just below, contains hundreds of beautiful, ancient statues of copper, bronze, silver and gold, as well as a spectacular collection of ancient Thangka. You are most welcome to see the treasure but make sure you do not take photographs.

Overnight at a teahouse in Tsarang; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

You are well advised to take the morning to explore further in Charang then head for Lo- Manthang. The trail is easy and relatively flat. You reach a pass and look down on an ancient walled town surrounded by green fields: Lo-Manthang. The town is compact with its walls. The king’s palace and the main temples: Champa Lakhang and Thugchen will be in sight from the pass already. You can also see beyond Lo-Manthang, the tiny villages of Namgyal, Tingkhar, Chosar, Nyphu and Kimling all within a half day’s ride. Descending on to the plain, the only entrance to the town is on the North-East corner.

Overnight at a teahouse in Lo-mangthang; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

In the morning, we visit the restricted area that is only for people paying a special permit fee for 13 days. It is quite interesting to visit the summer palace of the king of Tinkar and a few other interesting villages including Namgyal Monastery on your way. The view from here is quite spectacular; you will be looking down at wall city Lo- Manthang and the majestic snow peaks. In your front, which makes the landscape even more impressive. The combination of mountains, the colors like snow white, blue sky, barren hills and green valley makes the Mustang to remain one of most beautiful parts of Nepal not to mention the people and their tradition. Trek back to Lo-Manthang.

In the afternoon, you can enjoy the colorful festival. The festival with ritual 'Puja' is very interesting to watch and photograph. Lamas will do different types of rituals and they wear traditional costumes that are very colorful, mask dances are performed. Huge Thangka will be hung during the ceremony. People with their traditional dresses from different parts of Upper Mustang will come for the festival that will make the wall city of Lo-Mangthang even more impressive. It is especially great for photographers.

Overnight at a teahouse in Lo-mangthang; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

In the morning, it is again very interesting to visit the villages Nyiphu and Garphu. You will see some monasteries especially at Garphu, you will see how people were living in the cave in the former times. Back to Lo- Manthang and in the afternoon enjoy the festival. Today is the last day of the festival. The king will give an audience to the public and after the end of Puja, they chase the demon from the city by firing guns. The ritual Tantric Puja is performed for world peace and this is one of the most important events in the Sakya sect of Buddhism and Mustang is still keeping this tradition.

Overnight at a teahouse in Lo-mangthang; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek back towards Jomsom. We trek back on the same route enjoying the landscape and passing through villages. We have plenty of opportunities to take photographs.

Overnight at a teahouse in Ghami; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Retrace our steps back to Chele.

Overnight at a teahouse in Chele; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek back to Kagbeni.

Overnight at a teahouse in Kagbeni; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek back to Jomsom. Tonight, you can celebrate the end of your trek.

Overnight at a hotel in Jomsom; Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

In the morning, take the connecting flight for Pokhara. Further, connect the flight for Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel to conclude your trip.

Meals: Breakfast

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